The 2alpesnet.Com Les Deux Alpes Snow Report

Edging along the cliff above the Veneon river

I had my first via ferrata experience a few weeks ago in Alpe d’Huez, on the route from the base of the Sarenne Valley. A mixture of ‘sportif’ and ‘decouverte’, the experience really was a baptism of fire. After the first 30 minutes or so, I relaxed into the technique and became accustomed to being hundreds of metres above ground. So I didn’t really think twice when The Boyfriend suggested joining some friends to try Les Deux Alpes’ ‘decouverte’ route.

I should explain here – for those readers who didn’t catch my report on the Alpe d’Huez via ferrata – a little about the sport. A via ferrata is essentially a route marked by a line attached to the mountainside. You are attached to the line at all times by the karabiners on your ‘longe’ or leash in English, a two part, elasticated strap that connects to your harness.

You then make your way along the route by various means: walking when the terrain allows; climbing the iron rungs attached to the cliff face; or climbing using the natural holds provided by the rock. Routes that include mostly iron rungs are described by the French as ‘sportif’ and tend to be vertical and physically challenging. The ‘decouverte’ routes require more use of the natural topography and are more akin to traditional bolted climbing. The equipment used is a climbing harness, helmet, leash and good-soled trainers or walking boots.

My personal preference is for the ‘decouverte’ routes, as they feel more like an adventurous climb, scrabbling up rock faces and through the undergrowth. Les Deux Alpes has two routes and the ‘decouverte’, starts just outside Venosc and finishes in the local village of St Cristophe. Both villages are easily accessible by car or public bus.

The route starts on the shores of the Veneon, which runs down into Bourg d’Oisans where it joins the Romanche. The river is quite low at the moment but runs very fast and you shouldn’t try to swim in it. We started quite gently, weaving up and down, at some points walking along the shaded beaches that line the river. Then the climb started…

St Cristophe’s route takes you up 300m but, unlike the route in Alpe d’Huez, the climbs are interspersed with gentle sections where you simply walk along a path. That said, the path is very narrow and there’s a sheer drop on one side so you always remain connected to the line. There are some pretty tricky moves and at one point I found myself straddling a promontory, searching for an edge on which to place my right foot while my body was pressed to the rock and I clung on with my fingers.

There’s also a rope bridge that crosses a narrow gorge. After my experience at the Aventure Park I’m a bit of a dab-hand at rope bridges, but this one still stopped me in my tracks. It wasn’t the height or the actual bridge, but the descent onto it – which was slippery and steep – that had me double-checking all my equipment.

The terrain past the rope bridge really was fantastic. The views across the river are stunning and the final section is a real test of your upper body strength, as you haul yourself up a smooth 30° slope. We started at around 11am and by the time we hit the last section the rockface and the line were scorching.

Congratulating ourselves on our ascent, we made our way to the road, intending to walk the last part of the road into St Cristophe for a welcome drink. However, Dave spotted a sign for the second part of the route and before I could blink the boys had their harnesses back on. Shattered, Audrey and I opted for an early drink and arranged to meet them in La Cordee, a quirky café in the village.

The second part of the route is pretty short and takes you over a bridge into the top of the village. The moves aren’t too hard; instead it was fighting fatigue and the immense heat that were the challenges. After a drink and a piece of homemade pie (or two!) we walked down the road back towards the river for a refreshing paddle before heading home.